Domaine Guillot-Broux 居悠圃酒莊

位於勃根地南部馬貢(Mâcon)內的Cruzille村,Domaine Guillot-Broux是由老莊主Jean-Gérard Guillot與夫人Jaqueline Guillot-Broux (Broux 是夫人娘家的姓)創立,老莊主的父母Pierre和Jeanine1952年開始以有機法種植葡萄釀酒,是勃根地有機酒農中的先驅,他們的酒莊Clos des Vignes du Maine歷史更溯及中世紀的西元910年,當時克里尼修道院(Abbaye de Cluny)在此成立,同年Clos des Vignes du Maine就入籍勃根地地籍圖,本篤會(Confédératin Bénédictine)的克里尼修士修女們在此種植種作物以維持生活,其中釀酒葡萄是非常重要的作物,他們研究與記錄下每塊不同條件的風土產生的酒風,將葡萄園界定命名,勃根地特有的Climat概念由此而生,一片片以石牆圍起來作為界限的葡萄園,個個的名字除了透露其風土特性與酒風之外,背後也詳細記載著農耕和釀造的做法,讓後人有所依循。Guillot Broux家的酒款Clos de la Mollepierre, Combettes, Geniévrières, Perriers, Beaumont,即是沿用古時候拿破崙王朝時地籍登錄的古法文而來。

Jean-Gérard Guillot無意與兄長Alain Guillot分Clos des Vignes du Maine的繼承權,為了精進自己的釀酒專業,到了薄酒萊的Brouilly和勃根地的Meursault酒莊工作,更向自然派大師Jules Chauvet習得了扎實的知識技術,他尊重大自然、「讓酒自己說話」的宗旨深深影響日後的Domaine Guillot-Broux。回到家鄉後在老家隔壁買了不到一公頃大的葡萄園,自立門戶,近水樓台贏得了隔壁酒莊的女兒Jaqueline芳心的Jean-Gérard,婚後接手太太家十來公頃的葡萄園,兩人共同經營。熱愛閱讀與思辨的夫妻倆生活模式幾乎是日出而(耕)作,日落而「習」,假日帶著自家釀的酒在聚會上與學界的文哲雅士分享,就是他們最大的快樂了,Jules Chauvet以及INRA(法國國家農業研究院)當時的校長Max Leglise和Guillot夫妻感情尤其要好。2008年,Gérard Guillot過世,享年63歲,酒莊交給兩個兒子接棒,科班出身、個性傳統謹慎的Partice擔任總釀酒師,由外向的Emmanuel挑起酒莊管理與行銷的重責大任,在回歸家族企業之前,Gordon Ramsay聘他到倫敦為旗下新開的二星餐廳擔任侍酒師,餐廳並於開幕一年後晉升米其林三星。Emmanuel自己也熱愛酒鄉冒險尋找各個酒莊珍藏的佳釀,常和朋友一起到其他酒窖盲飲,朋友暱稱他Manu,他們喝到酒標已無法辨識的陳年佳釀時會一起腦力激盪,甚至帶著酒瓶到其他酒莊去尋找線索,文學造詣也得到遺傳的Manu更與好友Hervé Richez共同著作、Boris Guilloteau操刀插畫葡萄酒漫畫 « Un Grand Bourgogne Oublié (被遺忘的勃根地)»,揭開許多知名獨立酒莊的神秘面紗,台灣未發行繁體中文版,但有販售進口的簡體中文版。

Domaine Guillot-Broux葡萄園分佈於Cruzille, Chardonnay與Grévilly村,選擇於光照充足的東面向陽坡、石灰岩與黏土混合的山丘上種植,勃根地南端的Mâcon受到北面大陸性、西面海洋性、南面地中海氣候的影響,成為三種氣候類型的十字路口,但海洋性氣候影響略高於其他兩者,因此一年四季不缺水,春秋溫暖,夏熱冬涼,年日照充足而土壤水分調節力佳,能避免植株在冬季染上黴菌,葡萄吸收恰如其分的水分與養分,健康成長而盡情地將各種微風土特色展現在酒中。Cruzille村的土壤受到侏羅紀中世地質影響,酒質果味圓潤而富有礦物感,芳馥不膩口,其基本款比一般馬貢內需要略多一點時間醒酒,特定葡萄園的酒款的潛力更絕對值得傾注耐心來等待美味綻放,具有勃根地一級園以上的潛力。而Grévilly和Chardonnay的土壤較深,他們的酒在年輕的時候果味就非常豐沛迷人,適合即飲。Domaine Guillot-Broux酒款皆為單一園酒款,雖無政府眷顧之分級,但是品飲者可由其不同葡萄園的酒款之間感受到明顯不同的風格,若依酒質潛力來區分,Les Perrières、Clos de la Mollepierre有如他們自己的一級園, Le Clos 則可比喻為特級園,潛力至少都有十年以上,打破一般人認為馬貢內只能產即飲型餐酒的觀念。

居悠圃家的座右銘來自文學與思想家華爾道夫 . 艾默森(Waldo Emerson):「我們的土地並非繼承祖先的給予而來,是我們向下一代借來的」。

The domaine is founded in 1978 by Jean-Gérard Guillot toghether with his beloved wife Jacqueline Broux. The farming has been organic from the beginning and has been certified organic since 1991. They plough and use natural methods of fighting parasites, green manure, organic fertilisers (to feed the soil and not the vines), and mineral sprays with stable active molecules that leave no residues in the wines.

Respecting the soil in this way allows the vines to absorb all the elements they need to be healthy and balanced, and thus, produce healthy, balanced wines. Disease in the vines is generally due to an imbalance in nature; the domaine seeks to maintain the right balance rather than treat the consequences. “A good wine is made in the vines, not in the cellar.“

Cruzille: the birthplace of organic agriculture in Burgundy

In 1954, the parents of Jean-Gérard, Pierre and Jeannine Guillot, started the first organic vineyard in Burgundy. By conviction, and after meeting people such as Max Léglise, head of INRA (French National Institute for Agricultural Research) and author of several books on the subject, André Birre and Jules Chauvet, they set out on the great adventure of making organic wines.

After some years working on his family’s vineyard, the future domaine founder left to deepen his wine-making knowledge. He first worked for several years at the Domaine de la Chanal in Brouilly in the Beaujolais, then at the Domaine Bernard Michelot in Meursault.

In 1978, he returned to Cruzille, where he established the Domaine Guillot-Broux with our mother, Jacqueline (Broux is her maiden name).

Jean-Gérard was a winemaker with a profound understanding of all that this encompasses: the soil, the vines, and wine. His work in the vines was balanced by another passion: reading. At night he would pursue his interest in history, on which he read avidly. Listening to him talk about the building of cathedrals, or about Celtic culture, was enthralling.

He also loved hunting; not blind slaughter, but hunting with a deep respect for nature, with the knowledge that man is part of that nature, not separated from it.

Above all, he loved his family: his wife, his children, his grandchildren, to whom he passed on his passion, his knowledge and his land.

Emmanuel and Patrice managed together today’s domaine Guillot-Broux which has 17 hectares of vines situated in the three villages of Cruzille, Grévilly and Chardonnay, and have two appellations: Mâcon Cruzille and Mâcon Chardonnay. Most of the vineyards are on east-facing slopes on clayey limestone soil. The various geological formations give rise to different terroirs, resulting in strikingly different wines.

The nature of the soil in Cruzille particularly brings out mineral flavours, and produces wines that need a relatively long time to mature. The vineyards in Grévilly and Chardonnay tend to have deeper soil, and produce wines that, when drunk young, are often fruitier and more flattering than Cruzille wines; however, they become more complex after several years’ ageing. The wines from each vineyard are vinified separately, but only the best vineyards are selected for single vineyard cuvees.

As Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “We did not inherit the Earth from our forefathers, we are borrowing it from our descendants.”

風土 Climat

氣候 Climat:


Continental, oceanic, mediterranean

土壤 Sols:


Continental, oceanic, mediterranean